The Making of a Supermodel: A Conversation with Lina Alayah

By John Blankson

Linda, Cindy, Tyra, Gisele, Naomi, Claudia. These women have been on billboards, magazines, and catalog covers for over three decades. The mystery of the supermodel is attributed to a range of factors: is she business savvy? Did she hit the genetic lottery? Is it her walk? Or her sex appeal? What's the secret behind a model's staying power? The agent! A model's success largely depends on the agent who maintains client relationships while creating work opportunities. Lina Alayah, a tenacious modeling and scouting agent, has blazed a remarkable path from her roots in Montreal, Canada, to major European markets. Her illustrious career includes collaborations with industry talents such as Dalton Dubois, Kate King, Lottie Morris, Irina Lazareanu, Leo de Grandmont, and Iwana Cristal, as well as renowned brands like Estee Lauder, SSENSE, Canada Goose, Tommy Hilfiger, Aldo, Wonderland Magazine, 10 Magazine, Interview Magazine, and more. Alayah’s insights into the modeling world mean more brands will shift from intent to impact on diversity. From her formative years as an agent for Public Image Management, scouting and developing talent at Linden Staub in London, to managing the careers of new talent at London's Viva Model Management, Lina's multifaceted expertise spans molding talent and finding the next big face. Her unparalleled vision has propelled her to the forefront of the industry, where she navigates the dynamic landscape with finesse and acumen. In this exclusive interview with Ubikwist, the agent extraordinaire delves into the intricacies of scouting, the evolution of modeling trends, and the significance of authenticity in the industry. We uncover modeling myths, age discussions, and the IT factor that makes a supermodel.

John: Could you elaborate on the differences between scouting and a modeling agent?
Lina: Thank you for the question. A scouting agent specializes in discovering new faces through street scouting and major social events like concerts and music festivals. They also collaborate with smaller agencies worldwide to bring fresh faces to major fashion markets like London, Milan, Paris, and New York. They observe for hours, trying to find maybe one or two people in the crowd that have what it takes to be a model. So that's one of the main things that a scout does. On the other hand, a modeling agent manages a model's career trajectory, guiding them from the early stages to becoming established figures in the industry. It's a more hands-on role, focused on nurturing talent and maximizing opportunities.

John: Do your experiences as both a scout and an agent shape your approach in the industry?
Lina: Definitely. In this business, a lot of people choose one or the other and stick with it. So if they start as a scout or an agent, they stay with it. There is rarely an overlap.  So having a background in both gives anyone an edge. When someone is only a scout, they almost have no say in the management aspect of that model’s career. When you've been a scout and an agent, you're on that journey with your model from the very beginning to the peak of their career. It's a nice story arc when that relationship evolves in different facets.

John: What specific qualities do you look for when scouting potential models?
Lina: There's so much more to it than just physical appearance. Of course, height is important, especially for certain types of modeling. But beyond that, I'm drawn to a model's overall aura and energy. There's this indefinable quality that some people have— a magnetic presence that just draws you in. It's about finding someone who not only looks great but also has that special something that sets them apart from the crowd. Body proportions of course count, but it's really about the whole package—the way they move, the way they carry themselves, their personality—it all comes together to create that unique appeal.

John: What are the busiest times of the year for you?

Lina: While fashion weeks are undeniably the highlight of the year, there are plenty of other busy periods as well. Summertime, for example, is a prime season for scouting fresh talent. With festivals, concerts, and leisure activities in full swing, there's no shortage of opportunities to spot potential models out and about. Then there are the transitional months of September and February, which mark the beginning of the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons, respectively. These are key times for models and agencies alike, as they herald the arrival of new collections, campaigns, and opportunities. So, while fashion weeks may be the main event, there's plenty of action happening throughout the year. 

John: Can someone be photogenic and not necessarily be model material?

Lina: Being a model is so much more than being a pretty face. When I'm scouting on the street, I see so many drop-dead gorgeous people that I ultimately do not approach. High fashion doesn't prioritize conventional beauty; that's more on the commercial side. Some of the most successful  models were the tallest and most awkward in high school. They wouldn't be considered conventionally beautiful, which has nothing to do with modeling potential.

John: What age is "too old" to start for models?

Lina: There's been a recent positive shift where age isn't the dealbreaker it used to be. The standard age where most people start is from 17 to 21 years old. If you have career longevity, you can pretty much do this into your late 50s or early 60s. You don't need to start at a super young age anymore. Models are getting signed in their 40s. One of our brand-new faces is 52 years old. Some men reach their peak at age 40 or 45, so there's no limit. If  you have an amazing look, there's a market for you regardless of age

John: What are some types of modeling jobs that make people go, "She has made it?"

Lina: A brand exclusive is always good. Prada, Gucci, and Celine are brands that do this. If a girl gets a Prada exclusive, she only works with Prada for the duration of her contract— which can be an entire season or more. She'll feature in campaigns, ads, and fashion shows. Landing an exclusive is usually a great sign. Working with top directors is another one. It's a great relationship to build because if the casting team loves you, they will book you everywhere.

John: What makes a model a supermodel?

Lina: For me, two things make a model a supermodel. The first is career longevity. There are models from the 80s and 90s who are still working; booking covers, campaigns, and even runway appearances. A model may have a huge moment for 2-3 years and can make a big chunk of money during that period. It doesn't necessarily mean they will be remembered.   If you started your career as a teenager, and you are still getting work in your 40s, it speaks to your staying power. These women aren’t necessarily doing shows season after season. We see them in major campaigns and special brand collaborations.

The second thing is name recognition, which often comes with how a model has branded herself beyond a face that can sell products. When we look at Heidi, Iman, Twiggy, etc…, these women are household names. They’ve broken the mold of being a model and branded themselves according to their uniqueness. It's about finding your niche. There are thousands of models in the world. What makes you special and how do you connect with your audience?

John: Let's talk about diversity. How do you rate its progress and what would you like to see more of?

Lina: I think we're getting there slowly but surely. When you compare 2024  agencies’ rosters to the early 2000s, the cast is now more diverse. It used  to be a sea of white models and one black girl, or Asian or Latina. Things are better today. For example, Louis Vuitton’s latest campaigns feature girls from all backgrounds. That’s progress! I wouldn't say it's 10 on 10. We still have a lot of work to do, but casting teams are openly asking for more diverse models.   

What I would like to see more in the industry is genuine diversity. It can feel performative sometimes because it tends to happen at specific moments. For example, in 2020, the surge of Black Lives Matter protests called for more hiring of black models, which was great. It’s one thing to do it for a season and another to be consistent with it. Consumers can always tell when diversity isn’t genuine.  It’s important to have models from minority groups on your campaign roster.  We also need minorities in positions of power, leading fashion houses and publications. When you are consistent and intentional, diversity becomes part of your brand ethos.

John: What are some personality traits that signal somebody will make a good model?  

Lina: Charisma, confidence, and a positive attitude. It’s about your energy when you’re on set for 15 hours. You don't want to work with a model who is negative or is always annoyed. How do you stand out among 200 other girls? Are you memorable after you walk out of that room? Modeling is a job and I love models who are motivated, punctual, professional, and skillful. These traits will get you far in your career.

John: So what are some of the trends of modeling right now?

Lina: Lately I'm seeing a high demand for redheads. We've had a lot of casting directors and brands reaching out specifically for redheads.  Calum Harper, for example, became a viral TikTok sensation and he's killing it. There’s also been a big, big demand for trans models for the past couple of years. Alex Consani, Dalton DuBois, Colin Jones, and Leyna Bloom are some of the top modeling stars today. Trans models are having a big moment. North African models are also pretty in demand. We are seeing a lot of talent coming out of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. You have Malika, Elmas, Luji, Nora, and of course, Iman Hammam who is on runways all over the world. Latin American girls are on the rise to have their moment as well.

John: What happens to the girl with potential but doesn’t fit a trend? 

Lina: That's a great question. Let me specify that no single factor exclusively dictates casting or the trajectory of trends. Various entities wield influence in this industry, which includes casting directors and brands. Agencies also hold considerable sway, whether it’s by nurturing relationships with industry heavyweights or introducing fresh faces that diverge from trends. By fostering strong ties with key players, agents can potentially alter casting norms, steering them toward new directions. This ability to introduce unconventional talent to influential figures can, in turn, reshape prevailing trends. It underscores the importance of strategic mandates in placing individuals who challenge the status quo.

John: Does social media make a difference? Is it my make-or-break moment when I walk into an agency?  

Lina: Social media is important, yes, but not necessarily when you first arrive at the agency. If you already have a following and a personal brand, it’s a great plus that will always help you. It will never hurt you. Your 100 followers are not an issue for us if we see potential. It’s our job to help with your social media branding.

How would you rate your journey in three words? 

Lina: OK, let me think of 3 words. It's been exciting, I love that it's eye-opening and fascinating. It's a great business with lots of potential. We have the opportunity to make it even better.  It’s been an amazing journey and I can't wait for what’s next. 

John: What advice would you give to aspiring models looking to break into the industry?

Lina: Embrace your uniqueness. Don't be afraid to showcase your individuality and let your personality shine. Building a strong personal brand is essential in a competitive industry like ours. Hone your craft and invest in your development. Whether it's refining your runway walk, perfecting your posing techniques, or mastering the art of self-presentation. Continuous improvement is key. Cultivate resilience and perseverance. Rejection is inevitable in this industry, but it's how you bounce back from setbacks that truly defines your success. And finally, never underestimate the power of networking and building genuine connections. The relationships you forge along the way can open doors and pave the path to success. Stay true to yourself, stay focused on your goals, and never stop believing in your potential.